Wild west Wales: beaches, birds and a brew

The coastline of Pembrokeshire’s Marloes peninsula is glorious and uncrowded, the wildlife on nearby Skomer island is superb, and a new cafe on the way to both is the icing on the cake

At Musselwick beach, the yellow sand, hemmed in by black slate cliffs, is an idyllic picnic spot, as we discovered after persuading our two scowling boys to walk the 20 minutes from Marloes village. They duly built acomplicated sand fort just in time for the tide to roll in and destroy it – the beach is only accessible for four hours a day, two either side of low tide.

As we puffed back up the steps, we passed a dreadlocked fisherman in black neoprene, clutching a harpoon, with a serious-looking knife strapped to his thigh. He was in search of sea bass.

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