When in Rome … it’s time to eat real spaghetti carbonara

For Heinz Beck, a three-Michelin-star German chef working in the city’s top restaurant, the much-loved pasta dish is Rome on a plate

If you ask a Roman, they will tell you that spaghetti carbonara belongs to Rome. But I think this dish reflects the way the city welcomes outsiders. I first tried it in 1994, shortly after my arrival from Germany. I visited local restaurants to get to know the Roman culinary tradition, and I ate my first carbonara at Armando al Pantheon.

The history behind carbonara is not fully known. Northern and central Italian cooks have combined egg with cheese for centuries, and cacio e pepe (pasta with cheese and pepper) has been prepared in Rome since time immemorial, so adding egg and bacon was probably a natural evolution.

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