Steering clear of the famous three peaks our writer joins an expert guide to explore the lesser-known hills and valleys of the Yorkshire Dales
‘Have you noticed anything?” my guide Jonathan asks me.
We stop for a moment. There’s a lot to notice. I gaze across meadows speckled golden with buttercups. Dry-stone walls carve the fields into tiny fiefdoms, each with its own stone barn. The low hill we’ve just descended is washed by a panoply of greens. Somewhere above us a skylark is singing its little heart out in a worthy attempt to fill the broad valley with song. Nothing strikes me as untoward.