The Swan at Hay, Hay-on-Wye: hotel review

The chintzy restaurant is awaiting a refurb (and the bedrooms are a little fussy) but no one is looking at the wallpaper when the food is this good. Shame the hotel itself isn’t as creative as the brilliant menu

The dining chair had a wobbly leg, and husband was on the point of swapping it when general manager Ronan rushed up. Thinking our doubtful looks were occasioned by the chintziness of the upholstery (matching the curtains), he hastened to explain that though the hotel’s bedrooms had all been revamped, the Garden Room restaurant was still in its old incarnation. Modern, much less flowery furnishings were on order, he said, and would have been in place already but for some glitch.

Giving up on the chair switch, we sat down to dinner and any worries about seating were soon blown away by a meal – created by 28-year-old chef Jerry Adam – that will linger long in the memory.

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