The foodie traveller … finds the best seafood in Croatia

In a shack on a tiny island off the Adriatic coast, the fantastic seafood tastes all the better for the ranting of the irascible owner

The first time I got paid actual money to cook food was on a beautiful single-masted sloop superyacht based in the Mediterranean. For two months I sailed up and down the Adriatic coast of Croatia, between Trogir and Dubrovnik, cooking for rich Americans and disdainful Russians.

And it was on that trip that I found the best restaurant I’ve ever been to. It’s a shack, only accessible by boat. The son goes out fishing and the father cooks whatever he catches over charcoal while verbally abusing the guests … and that’s about it. Apart from the homemade “wine” he also serves, which takes your throat lining with it on the way down.

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