The foodie traveller … at breakfast with the faithful in Varanasi, India

For pilgrims to India’s holy city, the day begins in delicious fashion with kachoris – stuffed pastry balls fried at street stalls and served with vegetable curry
• Delhi’s new breed of independent restaurants, bars and clubs
• A walking and culture tour of Kolkata

From the acrid smell at the cremation ghats to the feel of the slime-covered buffalo as it shoulders you out of its way in the narrow lanes, Varanasi makes your senses scream. But don’t let your sense of taste miss out on the fun – devoted visitors to the holy city certainly don’t.

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