The Beverley Arms, East Yorkshire: hotel review

This revamped hotel’s heritage, comfort and biscuits appeal strongly to our writer, but his companion proves harder to please …

Driving into the leafy East Yorkshire town of Beverley, we clatter over a cattle grid, then past the racecourse into a smart Georgian market town. I am accompanied by Sophie, my partner, a woman who spent many years inspecting hotels, with clipboard in hand. She has never lost the skills. “Remember,” I hear myself say. “Try and enjoy yourself.” She gives me that look, the one that says, I’ll do what has to be done.

We both like Beverley, a cluster of architectural gems around a market square. When Henry V came to town after Agincourt, it took three days to get all the muck out of the market, but these days it is spotlessly neat and tidy. Almost uniquely in modern Britain there is only one empty shop, something of an achievement in itself, and the rest look satisfyingly prosperous. The medieval minster is the big draw, and a worthy one too, filled with grotesque carvings, soaring columns and ancient artefacts. Nearby stands the house where Mary Wollstonecraft spent some of her early teenage years, a fact only rediscovered in early 2018. There’s a plaque on the facade (it’s at 2 Highgate).

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