At this Cabo de Gata village, sun-filled days start late for the locals but the beach – and town square – stay busy long into the night
It’s peak holiday week, 28C on the coast of Almería, but I am one of only six people on the beach. Why? Because I am unfashionably – freakishly – early. The small resort of San José, the most accessible of the Cabo de Gata bays, is packed, but in Spain rising early to grab a spot, communing with nature and enjoying the relative balminess isn’t a thing. So, while hotels and apartments are stuffed to the gills, at 9am the town is still quiet: the bucket-and-spade kiosk shuttered, sparrows pecking below the swings, tomatoes still being grated for the breakfast tostadas at the beachfront Vittoria cafe, and zero action at the churreria truck.