Sicily’s baroque masterpiece makes for the perfect (warm) winter break

South-east Sicily loses nothing out of season but the crowds, finds Ed Cumming. It could just be the best time to enjoy its spectacular architecture, fantastic cuisine and ancient landscapes

At the car rental desk I thought we were out of the bureaucratic woods, but then the man pushed across yet another piece of paper. “It’s a waiver,” he said. “It means if the car’s stolen in Catania, other insurance doesn’t apply.”

“So we would pay the full amount?” “Yes. Just in Catania.”

Related: Giorgio Locatelli’s Sicily

Related: Vintage Sicily: a wine tour of the island

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