Peace amid cascades: national parks in Croatia and Bosnia

Plitvice Lakes national park in Croatia is booming, but quieter areas with crystal-clear rivers to enjoy are nearby, including across the border in Bosnia-Herzegovina

In the 15 years since I last visited Plitvice Lakes national park, much has changed in this mountainous region of Lika, near Croatia’s border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. Hotels, apartments, B&Bs and campsites have popped up at a rapid rate, their owners catering for visitors to these glorious, Unesco-listed lakes: 16 of them, tumbling down countless waterfalls in every shade of blue and green, from jade to turquoise and deep ocean blue.

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