When the US navy was kicked off the Puerto Rican island of Vieques, it left a Caribbean idyll. Now a new flight from London to San Juan means tourists can enjoy its solitary beauty
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It was pitch dark by the muddy lagoon, the only light coming from the leaders’ head torches. Two by two, the stealth team pushed their kayaks off from the mangroves and paddled across the inky water in search of the island’s most prized asset.
I say stealth team. We were actually a bunch of tourists, and our splashy paddling would have alerted any enemy guards. But the treasure we sought was no less exciting, because we were on the Caribbean island of Vieques, eight miles off Puerto Rico and home to one of the world’s brightest bioluminescent bays.