Magical mystery tour: a road trip through Mexico

Kicking off at a raucous Day of the Dead party, this odyssey takes in indigenous culture rarely seen by outsiders, with plenty of music and laughs along the way

I’m lying on the grass in the churchyard in Huaquechula, a small town in the state of Puebla, central Mexico. I open my eyes and look up. A man dressed in eagle feathers is standing on top of a 30-metre telegraph pole banging a small drum, and four other men are climbing up towards him. When the four reach the top, they attach ropes to their ankles and lean far back, arms out, until they are upside down. Then the eagle-man starts to dance and sing.

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