Condor moments: trekking in Patagonia

There’s no better way to enjoy the drama of Patagonia than striking out on the W Trek – one of the most remote walks in one of the most beautiful places on Earth

As dusk fell, there on the skyline, at the top of a cliff nearly 100ft above us, was a female puma. Calm and elegant, she looked down on us as if she was choosing the next course of her evening meal.

She was joined by her two cubs. A group of us looked up as the mother groomed one of them and the cub returned the compliment, affectionately licking its mother’s face before, 15 minutes later, they vanished into the night.

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