Cabo de Gata, Spain: exploring Europe’s only desert

The arid beauty of Cabo de Gata, in Almería, has inspired works by Lorca and the spaghetti westerns of Sergio Leone – and has one of Spain’s least-developed coasts

After several hours walking along stark cliffs and ridges, I come down a hillside dotted with white asphodels and find myself on an untrodden beach. I have not seen another person since breakfast. Behind the beach, which is black, are banks of wild aloes with their massive spiky leaves at ground level and skinny dried flower stems jutting upwards.

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