Barbecue joints and a boho vibe in the Tigre delta, Argentina

Less than an hour by train from Buenos Aires lies a watery world of islands and little rivers, perfect for exploring by kayak … before you tackle a trouser-busting barbecue lunch

The river’s criss-crossing tributaries are the colour of milky tea. Weeping willow branches gently stir its surface, stilted wooden houses dot the banks and locals are dropped off at their island homes by a long, polished-wood boat – a water taxi. We are only 45 minutes by train from downtown Buenos Aires and yet, from here on, it’s waterborne transport only.

This is the Paraná delta, a 300km network of waterways that stretches from central Argentina to the gaping mouth of the River Plate. It’s a vast stretch of lush green land chopped into hundreds of islands by veins of water running in all directions. The islands on the northern edge of the delta, towards the border with Uruguay, are mostly uninhabited but, here, near the gateway town of Tigre, there’s a thriving community of around 4,000 residents – and many more on summer weekends.

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