A Rhine romance: following the mighty river

Flowing from the Swiss Alps to the Hook of Holland, the Rhine is a merger of European cultures and landscapes, writes Ben Coates

Hiking over the rocks near Tujetsch, I was surprised to find a lighthouse. My surprise wasn’t due to its appearance: the lighthouse was modest in size and rusty red, with the squat proportions of a wine cork, and barely visible through a jacket of mist. What made it extraordinary was its location: perched atop a mountain in Switzerland, more than 200 miles from the nearest coastline and 2,000 metres above sea level.

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