Exploring the food and drink of the Ebro delta, our writer follows sustainably caught tuna from sea to plate, visits a ‘wine cathedral’ and samples Spanish sake
I’m snorkelling in the Mediterranean, three miles off the Catalan coast, and for a heart-stopping split second I’m eyeball-to-eyeball with my dinner – a 250kg bluefin tuna that shoots out of the deep blue abyss like a torpedo a metre below me. Our group of 30 or so snorkellers is surrounded by hundreds of the fish. When they swim past, they are moving so fast we feel the force of their wake and scream with excitement. I’d heard of fishing for your supper before … but never swimming with it.