Explore Italy’s most fertile and interesting regions at these atmospheric guesthouses where you’ll feast on fantastic local food and wine
Whimsical drawings of fate, or sprites, adorning the walls aren’t the only reason this agriturismo has a touch of magic. Its lushly forested surroundings surpass any Under the Tuscan Sun fantasies and while the husband-and-wife team speaks minimal English, their sense of hospitality transcends language barriers. For nearly two decades, Giovanni and Cristina have been welcoming travellers with open arms – not to mention bountiful breakfasts of homemade tarts, cakes and jams from their organic fruit orchards. Bread here comes from the on-site wood-burning oven, while the subtly sweet liqueurs lining the shelves come from the neighbours. A modest drive from Parma’s mythical charcuterie, Ferrara’s cappellacci di zucca (stuffed pasta with pumpkin, amaretti cookies, brown butter and sage), Modena’s honeyed vinegar, and Bologna’s silken tagliatelle, the farm’s location offers ample diversions for visiting gourmands. While the hosts are always happy to suggest hidden local spots for dinner or arrange, say, to watch wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano being made, make some time to soak in the bucolic splendour of the farm itself. When mushroom season comes, the woods teem with porcini, chanterelles, black trumpets and other prized funghi. Guests come from all over for foraging tours led by the aptly named Giovanni Cantarelli (“chanterelles”) and return bearing baskets of mycological gold.
• Doubles from €100 B&B, funghiefate.com